How To Build A Cabinet From A Bookshelf And Shutters

Download the cut list to build a cabinet from a bookshelf and shutters.

Overview for Making a Cabinet from a Bookshelf and Shutters

The shutters are mounted to the face of the bookcase. Choose a pair that’s the same height as the bookcase, or add a header board to make up for the difference. The top and base are cut to the width of the bookcase, and extend past the front to cover the edges of the shutter doors and leave a reveal. CUT LIST You can use the cut list below or download the cut list to build a cabinet from a bookshelf and shutters. Bookcase. Choose a small bookcase with adjustable shelves. (Ours was 29⅝"W by 11⅝"D by 31⅝"H.) The toekick, if it has one, will be covered by the shutter doors. Shutters for doors. Choose shutters sized to the height and width of the bookcase. (Ours were by 14¾"W by 29"H.) If the shutters are shorter than the bookcase, add a header board at the top of the bookcase to make up the gap in height. Once installed, the shutters should be flush with the sides of the bookcase, with a gap of about ⅛ inch between them. 1x utility shelving. You’ll rip the top and bottom of the cabinet from this board. The length of each piece will equal the width of the bookcase; the width of each piece will equal the depth of the bookcase plus the thickness of the shutters, plus ¼ inch for a reveal. To make sure you have enough material, get a piece that’s at least twice as long as the bookcase is wide, and wide enough to cover the depth of the bookcase plus the thickness of the shutters and reveal. 1x3 to create a header, if necessary, and a stop block for attaching the magnetic door catches. Get a piece long enough to span the width of the bookcase, plus several inches for the stop block. ¾-inch trim. Get enough to cover the front and side edges of the top and bottom of the cabinet.

Build the Bookcase

Put together a ready-to-assemble bookcase using the included hardware; you can find one at any home store. Attach the backing, using the included nails, to keep the piece square. Set the shelves aside for Step 9.

Attach the Top and Base

Cut two boards from 1 shelving to the width of the bookcase and to its depth plus the thickness of the shutters, plus ¼ inch for a reveal. Nail the boards to the top and bottom of the bookcase, flush with the back and sides.

Add the Header

Cut a length of 1x3 to the width of the cabinet. Lay it on the face of the cabinet and butt it against the top. Nail through the header and into the sides of the cabinet.

Install the Furniture Feet

Screw the corner foot plates to the base of the cabinet about 1½ inches in from each corner. Screw the bun feet into the plates.

Cut and Secure the Trim

Miter ¾-inch molding to wrap the front and side edges of the cabinet’s top and base. Nail on the trim so that it’s flush with the cabinet’s top, and do the same for the base, reversing the profile.

Hang the Shutter Doors

Lay the shutters on the face of the cabinet. Screw two H-hinges to the outside edge of each door and to the sides of the cabinet, using the included fasteners.

Add the Door Catches

Attach the metal plates to the inside top corners of the doors. Nail a stop block to the back side of the header so that the two pieces form an “L.” Screw the catches to the block so that they make contact with the plates when the doors are closed.

Install the Knobs

Mark the knob positions on the inner stiles of the doors. Drill holes and secure the knobs with the included screws. Put in the shelves. Rough up the piece with sandpaper, then coat it with a primer-sealer, such as Kilz, followed by satin or semigloss paint.